Hole Saw Arbor – V19 Article | Machinist
The Oct/Nov Machinist’s Workshop has an article by Lowell Braxton which describes building various arbors. The hole saw arbor caught my attention, but don’t quite understand it.
On my Starrett hole saw arbor (for a drill), I screw the cutting blade part-way onto the arbor, then pull a spring loaded collar down to retract the 2 drive pins, then finish screwing on the hole saw, then release the collar to allow the pins to seat in the hole saw base’s pin holes.
In the construction article, no mention is made of retracting the pins, so how is the saw being positioned down over them? You can only screw the saw on till it hits the pins.
Either something is missing in the article, or, as happens often, my brain is being inflexible. Someone please help me, and yes, I’m kind of new to machining.
Alex
I didn’t see the article,but it might be like one I made a few years ago.I just made a stub on the end to fit inside the threads.Then I just stuck a holesaw over the stub and used a transfer punch to mark the hole centers.Drilled and tapped those marks for 1/4-20 threads and I use two 1/4-20 allen cap screws to hold the saw on the shank.This eliminates the slack in the pin drive setup and also removes the chatter the pin setup produces.
I have ran 6" saws on that arbor cutting 1" plate in the lathe with no problems.
Alex,
I didn’t see the article but I can tell you how the Lenox arbor works. It is a hex shank with a flange. The saw screws up to the flange. You have a floating washer with two pins that rides on the back side of the flange. The two pins stick down through corresponding holes in the flange. There is a nut that threads on above the floating washer that forces it down and makes the pins stick out of the flange. You have to back the hole saw up to align the holes with the pins. Once they line up with the holes in the top of the saw you tighten the top nut so the pins stick down through the washer and can’t back out.
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